Coats Quests

Everyone knows about Capri, but situated in the northern part of the Campanian Archipelago is the gorgeous and lesser-known island of Ischia. Accessible by ferry from Pozzuoli or Napoli, Ischia is a perfect destination for a day trip or a weekend getaway. The ancient, volcanic island is known for its natural hot springs, which can be accessed by boat on the outskirts of the island or from a number of natural day spas on the island.

If I had to choose between Ischia and Capri, I’d choose Ischia every time. I have ferried from Napoli to Capri, and it can be very crowded and chaotic. A less expensive, more relaxing feel is to ferry from Pozzuoli to Ischia, specifically Porto di Casamicciola. Warning: Driving in Pozzuoli can be as congested as, if not more so, than downtown Napoli. After a few 10am arrivals, I now insist on arriving to the municipal parking lot by 7:45 to ensure a spot near the port. Once the metered parking is taken care of, you can stroll over to the church dedicated to the Apostle Paul. He spent seven days in the ancient city (referred to in the Bible as Puteoli in Acts 28:13-14), and there is a church dedicated to him and his time spent there.

Taking the ferry over is one of my favorite parts of this day. The views leaving Pozzuoli are stunning, and the approach to the smaller port on the northern part of the island is absolutely dreamy. Along the way, you will also pass the smaller island of Procida, the views of which are also enchanting. Depending on the ferry system you use, you will be able to enjoy snacks and caffe from the bar on the boat during the hour-long ferry to the island. I prefer to book the ferry ahead of time for departure, but usually buy right at the window for the return.

Once you disembark, you will be immediately approached by taxi drivers that offer you tours or transport to various parts of the island. Depending on your group size and time constraints, you might consider the much less expensive bus system. Tickets are available for purchase at the newspaper kiosk (cash only) in the first piazza you encounter. I have done a taxi tour of the island, explored Castello Aragonese d’Ischia, and enjoyed the natural spas at Negombo. I recommend visiting the castle area in the morning (though you could easily spend the entire day there!) and then making your way to the natural springs in the afternoon. Taxi drivers can offer discounts to Negombo, so don’t be afraid to ask!

Tickets are available for purchase directly at the castle. The medieval castle sits on an islet, which holds not only the castle, but an entire medieval village. There are a few caffes peppered throughout, and the site is truly a wonder to explore.

There are plenty of places to enjoy Neopolitan seafood in the town, but we enjoy eating a quick bite at Negombo so we can maximize our time at the natural spa oasis. I have reserved tickets for Negombo ahead of time, directly on their website, and I have also purchased entrance tickets at the window upon arrival. I imagine the weekends get busier the later in the summer you get, so booking ahead is a good idea.

What my kids liked: The natural sauna in a rock at the top of the property! There were tons of different hottubs and natural springs to explore throughout the property.

Where to park: While it’s possible to take your car over on the ferry, I’ve never done it and much prefer parking at the port and enjoying the bliss of not driving while on the island!

Enjoy the delight that is Ischia!